The random musings were interrupted briefly by the overhead announcement of the descent into the island's airspace. A few minutes later, we had touched down and were taxied to the small airport. Although tiny, the airport definitely had a facelift over yesteryears. Our bags arrived sans surprises and moments later we were whisked by the Ramada Palace Hotel driver through Muhurraq and into Manama. As date palms raced by us on both sides of the road, my wife remarked at the shades of similarity with Dubai we visited two years ago .

Day One - Hotel
Ramada Palace is an excellent hotel situated in the bylanes of Gudabiya. After a quick check-in we were introduced to our Superior Double room. Equipped with a King sized bed, flat screen TV, coffee/tea maker and free WiFi, the room was more than we could have asked for. Hotel rates in Bahrain are generally on the expensive side when compared with US facilities but the room was well worth the price. A hot shower refreshed our frames and brushed off any fatigue gathered on the flight.

We exchanged travelers checks for bright colored Bahraini dinar notes at the neighboring Bahrain Financing Company (BFC) branch. Not all financial institutions accept travelers checks and so the BFC was God-send. Foreign currency notes are more easily changeable and better advised to carry. Walking back to the hotel, we stopped briefly at one of the numerous cold stores peppered all around the place (run by Keralite expats) to stock up on life-giving water, snacks and a Viva SIM card. A couple of shops further was a place that sold pizzas by day and shwarmas by night. We would take away stuff from here often over the next few days of our stay. Pizza devoured, the inviting king-sized bed in our room had its occupants collapse for a snooze.

Day One - NEC
The powerful air-conditioning and the royal coziness of the bed conned us into several hours of deep slumber. I stirred into consciousness a little after 5 PM and rushed to get ready to attend one of the few services at the local National Evangelical Church (NEC). I found my way through the busy roads still educating myself on the street etiquette of a "foreign" country. Enroute, the familiar smells of Khubuz (Arabic flat bread baked on the inner walls of a clay oven) and shwarmas tingled my tastebuds.

NEC is nestled right next to the American Mission Hospital clinics. A sky walk now connects the Hospital buildings across the street. Many years ago, NEC was where our congregation met on Fridays for church and Sunday School classes. The place was abuzz with activity as microphones and the overhead projector were tested. A little group huddled around a lone piano practicing the final notes of a hymn. I wandered into the overhanging balcony area for an aerial view and some pictures.

Back downstairs, the assistant pastor walked over to welcome me to the service. After some introductions he informed that he too was an ex-ISBite from 1985 who was now in Bahrain on a pastoral mission. Only later that evening when I had returned to the hotel would I discover that he was none other than Mr. Richard's son. Raja and I even travelled on the same school bus for a while. It felt great to have met someone I knew from school even if I didn't recognize his identity at the exact moment we chatted. A parade of past, chilly Christmas Eve services marched before me. Short on time and having to keep another appointment, I left the building and back tracked my steps to Ramada Palace.

Day One – the Evening
We were scheduled to meet a class teacher of mine from long ago at the hotel lobby. Mrs. Laila Punnoose arrived with her daughter and son promptly at our pre-decided time. It was lovely talking to her after all these years. The conversations were non-stop and bounced harmoniously between the past and present. The sixth grade that she taught me was the most memorable school year of my life and I remain indebted to her and other teachers of ISB for their fostering. The privilege of re-connecting with her was a touching experience for me. Precious moments are far and few in life and this was one of them. Her family was adorable and their company made the evening a special one.

Day Two – The Old Neighborhood
Early next morning while the sun was still below the horizon with the air hanging crisp and cool, I ventured to explore my old neighborhood on Shaikh Hamad Road. The trip took me past my old bus-stop of Al-Nooh building. New construction had deemed obsolete the rustic bird shop and its owner. Jasim, who loved children, always had his shop doors open for us while we waited patiently for our bus to arrive. Sporting the tatoo of a bikini clad lady, he would usually sit sipping arabian tea or amuse us with bird tricks. My mind contemplated on what became of the affable gentleman.

A little further down the street, I finally zeroed in on my old residence which appeared run-down in contrast with the smartly painted building of my childhood. I resisted the temptation to knock on my old apartment door on the third floor respecting the boundaries of being an outsider. A little saddened by all the visual changes, I next decided to visit the magical Water Gardens we so often frequented.

Day Two – Water Gardens
Water Gardens in Gufool is only a short stroll from my old home. Approaching the bend to the gate, I could immediately recognize the tattered condition of the park. I had read that plans exist to tear down and rebuild the park in the near future. I couldn't help but agree to the urgent need to address its dilapidated state. The two water bodies still exist but could use desperate cleanup. I walked around the gardens reviving quaint memories. I had spent many evenings here enjoying the various attractions the park had to offer back then. As I walked past the Batelco buildings, Sacred Heart Church and cinema houses on my way back to the hotel, I couldn't help but wish that the park had not fallen into disarray.

Day Two - Malls
The afternoon gave us our first taste of Bahrain Malls. Obviously the proliferation of malls over the last decade or more was rooted in the effort to improve tourism as has been done in Dubai. From what we hear, neighboring Saudis flood the malls and restaurants on the Middle East weekend. Fortunately, most of the malls are concentrated in the Seef area and have not dampened the old charm of vintage Manama. We found the prices at the malls a little too dear for our budget pockets and eschewed from splurging. Stores such as Carrefour were a saving grace giving some opportunity to shop for the average Joe. The taxi drive to and from the malls provided a glimpse of how Bahrain's skyline has transformed over the years. The artsy design of the World Trade Center buildings and the twin financial towers are unmistakable landmarks.

Day Three – Al Fateh Mosque
Al-Fateh mosque was open in 1987 serving to educate visitors on Islam. Its grand minarets glistened and shone under the morning sun. The main worship area boasts a maximum capacity of 7000 worshippers. The architecture is grandiose and the details impeccable. It is one of the few mosques where non-Muslims can visit. Women are required to dress in an abaya and hijab. For the unprepared female visitor, luckily, there is a tent set up outside where garments can be borrowed free of cost. The materials for construction of the mosque such as timber, marble and stone originate from different places around the globe. A huge chandelier hangs ominously from the central dome constructed of fiber glass. Each visitor or group is assigned a guide responsible for escorting the visitor through the mosque and explaining Islamic beliefs. The acoustics in the building are amazing. A clap in the main area can be heard all around the mosque. In 2007, the Sheikh Isa Library was opened next to the Mosque to provide further study opportunity for those interested. The Mosque is a must visit site for anyone coming to Bahrain.

Day Three – ISB
Mirza Aamir Baig picked me up at the hotel and we were off to the school of our beginnings. Green road signs directing us to Isa Town cropped up with fair regularity. The roundabouts have been replaced with traffic lights serving to better stream the increased traffic. Finally, the last turn brought us right by the school with the bright red bricks of the Nehru block signaling our destination. A new administrative building has been erected adjacent to the exit gate of the campus.

We entered the building and soon enough the ever youthful Mrs. Sequeira arrived to greet us. It was so refreshing to see her and I eagerly recounted one of her favorite questions in class – how are Indira Gandhi and Gandhiji related (Hint: They are not). We marvelled at how the school has swelled in strength to over 8000 students. That definitely explained the new buildings on campus including the Sheikh Isa Building to the East end of the original football ground. It was a proud moment to witness the school having become the largest in Bahrain. What explosive growth from the near derelict school buildings in Manama prior to the 80s! Also saw familiar faces in Mrs Anne Jacob and Mr. Abdullah (used to be in charge of checking out balls when we were in school). The other Mr. Abdullah, still devotedly runs the school bus. The photos would later evoke the response that some potent anti-aging cream had ostensibly immunized them all from the assault of time that miserably afflicted the rest of us!!

Photos clicked, we got a brief glimpse of the school premises from outside the administration building. I squinted to peek through the doors of the Tagore block where the secondary school students used to spend many classroom hours. The Jashanmal auditorium exterior was spruced up with reflective glass. To cater to the burgeoning number of students, three canteens reside on campus. I hear that the menu has greatly improved from the limited options of OK chips, "Minu", orange juice boxes and 100 fils sandwiches we had to select from. Full size trees provided a green canopy from the sun. Kids played around the grounds as have kids over the generations before them. Finally, it was time to bid farewell to the school that had nurtured us. After warm hugs, we were off again. We made a final stop at the still standing Dairy Queen before I retired to the hotel with a satisfied sigh and smile.

Day Three – Dinner
I met with Mrs. Laila Punnoose and Mrs. Philomena Menezes for a vegetarian dinner. Mrs. Menezes was flattered, though skeptical, when I told her that her air hostess charms had not diminished one bit! We had a lovely dinner and I learnt that both teachers have been close family friends since the time they joined school. In school, we always believed that teachers didn't have a life outside the confines of the educational institution and were constantly scheming on new ways to make our lives morose…:) This myth was effectively busted with the conversations we exchanged following which I appreciated even more the challenges faced by teachers in balancing their profession with duties at home. Imagine having to deal with forty plus students each class for the entire day who were behaviorally disparate accompanied with varying needs and then fulfilling household responsibilities with equal efficiency! It takes enormous sacrifice and dedication to play the role of a teacher. The hand that shapes a child surely partners with the hand that rocks the cradle. There is little argument that we were coached by the finest stalwarts of the profession at ISB who with selfless loyalty and fond affection raised generations of outstanding citizens of human society. Although impossible to ever repay their service and perseverance, my own humble optimism hopes that a returning product of their tireless toil somehow serves to represent an unworthy token of our deep appreciation for their love and labor. The evening was graced by scrumptious food, delightful conversation and even more beloved company!

Day Four – Old Manama
The Manama Souq is a labyrinth of little shops with merchandise traded very much the way traders operated in the old days. I took the route leading into the market from just past American Mission Hospital. Family Bookshop still survives albeit at a slightly displaced location. The market which usually bustles with commotion was still asleep at the early hour. The near deserted streets gave me good opportunities to pause, explore and go click-happy without attracting stares. I passed Eastern Bakery, Manama Gold Souq, Yateem Center and finally walked through the canopy leading to Bab-al-Bahrain, the entrance to the old market and the traditional pride of Bahrain. Opposite the arched entrance and across the fountains is the Manama Post Office. Students waited in front of it for the arrival of their school bus while taxis at the roundabout lined up for passengers. Most taxis now-a-days are metered and therefore saves the hassle of having to negotiate prices prior to mounting. However, the common observation was that meters were usually already running at the time the taxis were hailed. The old part of town felt very much like my Manama from yesterday– timeless and mostly unchanged.

Day Four – Bahrain National Museum and Miscellaneous
The Museum is a praise-worthy monument dense with interesting facts, artifacts and cultural recreations. With more than one level to explore, the museum presents the history of the island right from the early Dilmun days until today. While Bahrain appears lack-luster to the naive eye, the museum dispels that notion by demonstrating the 7-10,000 years of history native to the island. Numerous burials mounds and settlements unearthed archeologically reveal a rich journey through various eras and rulers. The transition from being a pearl driven economy to an oil based one is poignantly potrayed. Life-size recreation of everyday Bahraini culture and lifestyle render a visually stunning impression of a proud people and their heritage. Bahrain is a very friendly country and the hospitability of the people, both local and expat, is impossible to miss. Museum inspection completed, we left the building and some road construction to finally catch a taxi to Seef Mall.

On the last evening in Bahrain, Mirza came over to the hotel and for a final dinner. I always remember Mirza as a soft-spoken and semi-shy boy from Vth grade class. We were good friends then and now had the unique opportunity to re-forge that friendship. Acquaintances are temporal but friendships last a lifetime. Mirza went out of his way to ensure that my second brush with Bahrain was truly memorable. As we shook hands for a final time, we knew it wouldn't be the last time we would meet.

Closing Thoughts -
I flew back the next morning satisfied and enriched by my trip. The island no doubt has transformed through the years … some areas more than others. It would be self-indulgent of me to expect it to have preserved in deep-freeze and emerged with no differences from the time when I had last left. But through the fissures of the new face of Bahrain, I could still recognize the moments in time I was once part of. The heart of the island still pumps flush with its traditions and cultural values that made it endearing to begin with. And as long as the human warmth endures, the saga will continue and I will surely return to celebrate the persistent charm of Bahrain through its numerous facades.